Enchanted Isles and the Ecuadorian Ghengis Khan

If you think you've kept up with the jones's and have the best camera on the street, leave it a home and buy the most brand spanking accessorised camera money can buy. The Galapagos are a dream; environmentalist, photographers, biologist, and every single average Joe will wet their pants at this 3 million year old story of evolution.

The father of all this beauty is a geological hot spot, roughly 250 square kilometres, smack bang in the middle of the pacific. Over three millions years, islands have formed both below and above the sea, lifted up by the tectonic movements, and importantly, move 8cms a year west. The product, an array of islands, each with a unique composition of minerals that produce landscapes that vary both large and small. The landscape over the current dry season, is often reminiscent of a 60's martian show. The flora and fauna, especially those restricted to land, have each evolved to suit their individual habitats. The finches will have different size and shaped beaks, the tortoises varying size necks and noticeably different shells, the iguanas sized and coloured. Even the plants can have different characteristics.

Time being the restraint in jotting an essay on each of these magnificent animals, I will attempt to provide the highlights.

Tortoises are the land based cousins of sea turtles. Hunted to near extinction by pirates and fisherman, only 13 of the once 16-17 endemic species remain. Although conceived and hatch in the wild, they are reared in a controlled environment to avoid the introduced pests of dogs, cats, goats, rats and donkeys. With the passing of five years, they are strong enough to withstand the attacks and released to their home island, never releasing hybrids. The life can span 200 years.

The sea turtles, which I have proudly swum with around twenty are the most graceful creatures of the seas. Like all animals in the Galapagos the lack the ingrained fear of humans, the product of millions of years of isolation. With all the attention you pay these animals, they only care if you invade their personal space, generally 2 metres. With many, we literally swam and observe from this distance for up to ten metres, watching them swim, feast, fish feast of their algy covered exteriors. We even managed to watch their mating from a boat over the last day.

The ubiquitous seal lions are a delight. The pups inquisitive and playful, the adults whom you encounter in the sea will swim around you for 5 seconds before retiring to chase a reef shark or iguana. The bull, master of a harem of up to 25 females fights every day to save his place in the sun. The losers, attempt to usurp a bull every four months, the unsuccessful, retreat to losers corner.

The iguanas, marine, land, and the sterile hybrids occupy each island feasting on cactus or algy. Seemingly stone statues, they spring to life at the sign of a freshly fallen cactus leaf, their bodies are warm enough to fish, or the are being chased by a seal.

Also sighted and enjoyed, but shamefully reduced to footnotes are a small amount penguins and dolphins. The finches, albatross, American oyster catcher, heron of the bird world. The lava lizards and rarely seen snakes round out the major list.

Oh.... And finally, the boobies. Hooded, red, and our favourite the blue are the oddest of creates. The walking befits the movements of a penguin, the mating dance a series of timed movements highlighting the plumage whilst attracting potential mates, the hunting a series of dives from 30 - 50 metres in the sky picking our sardines up to five metres below sea level. The boobies, and their cute blue feet acquired after three years, are a favourite.


Finally thoughts and notes..... The captain of our boat was a spit for Chopper..... Countless tourist, unimaginably loud and rude, but thankfully not present on our trip should not be granted this priceless privilege. They will get back home and drive their suv's / 4wds, whilst chugging on another burger in a Styrofoam container........ Although decimated, it is of pure luck that they have survived the ravages that the rest of the planet has endured from humans ........ The locals, especially the unemployed fisherman are often the forgotten story ............ We though our tour company, gap, were a let down......... The crew and guides were fantastic ......... Swimming a 6am in the sea is a treat ............ When we're old and at least I'm grey and if we're lucky, we'll visit over the wet season.

Attention all and former Dillon's, you have a new sacred pilgrimage that you must perform before you final breath.... The Mongolian and the Ecuadorian equivalent of the Genghis Khan , the mongo.