Welcome to the jungle, we got fun ´n´games

After a few days resting in Quito, we hit the road at 10 O´clock last night for the bustling Oriente oil town of Lago Agrio. Nestled near the border of Columbia, it produces two unexpected side effects, the positive of excellent Columiban coffee for Beth and the negative of a safe haven for Columiban militia. Thankfully, we have avoided a caffeine free morning for Beth.

The highlight of a night bus is that you don´t see the other cars, cliffs, dodgy dirt roads, and questionable driving as you descend roughly 3,000 metres from the Andies to the jungle. The downside is a favourite ecuadorian past time of reclining your seat back for a nap, whilst reducing the ability of the passenger behind to move. Anyway, after 8 hours of thinking of DVT with the odd bit of sleep, we arrived at this 35 year old town 4 hours early at 5;30am.

Although this is remote, we leave at ten via car, motorised canoe, and finally hike to our jungle retreat for five days with no hot water, but thankfully a bar stocked with the local firewater, Zhumir.

Enchanted Isles and the Ecuadorian Ghengis Khan

If you think you've kept up with the jones's and have the best camera on the street, leave it a home and buy the most brand spanking accessorised camera money can buy. The Galapagos are a dream; environmentalist, photographers, biologist, and every single average Joe will wet their pants at this 3 million year old story of evolution.

The father of all this beauty is a geological hot spot, roughly 250 square kilometres, smack bang in the middle of the pacific. Over three millions years, islands have formed both below and above the sea, lifted up by the tectonic movements, and importantly, move 8cms a year west. The product, an array of islands, each with a unique composition of minerals that produce landscapes that vary both large and small. The landscape over the current dry season, is often reminiscent of a 60's martian show. The flora and fauna, especially those restricted to land, have each evolved to suit their individual habitats. The finches will have different size and shaped beaks, the tortoises varying size necks and noticeably different shells, the iguanas sized and coloured. Even the plants can have different characteristics.

Time being the restraint in jotting an essay on each of these magnificent animals, I will attempt to provide the highlights.

Tortoises are the land based cousins of sea turtles. Hunted to near extinction by pirates and fisherman, only 13 of the once 16-17 endemic species remain. Although conceived and hatch in the wild, they are reared in a controlled environment to avoid the introduced pests of dogs, cats, goats, rats and donkeys. With the passing of five years, they are strong enough to withstand the attacks and released to their home island, never releasing hybrids. The life can span 200 years.

The sea turtles, which I have proudly swum with around twenty are the most graceful creatures of the seas. Like all animals in the Galapagos the lack the ingrained fear of humans, the product of millions of years of isolation. With all the attention you pay these animals, they only care if you invade their personal space, generally 2 metres. With many, we literally swam and observe from this distance for up to ten metres, watching them swim, feast, fish feast of their algy covered exteriors. We even managed to watch their mating from a boat over the last day.

The ubiquitous seal lions are a delight. The pups inquisitive and playful, the adults whom you encounter in the sea will swim around you for 5 seconds before retiring to chase a reef shark or iguana. The bull, master of a harem of up to 25 females fights every day to save his place in the sun. The losers, attempt to usurp a bull every four months, the unsuccessful, retreat to losers corner.

The iguanas, marine, land, and the sterile hybrids occupy each island feasting on cactus or algy. Seemingly stone statues, they spring to life at the sign of a freshly fallen cactus leaf, their bodies are warm enough to fish, or the are being chased by a seal.

Also sighted and enjoyed, but shamefully reduced to footnotes are a small amount penguins and dolphins. The finches, albatross, American oyster catcher, heron of the bird world. The lava lizards and rarely seen snakes round out the major list.

Oh.... And finally, the boobies. Hooded, red, and our favourite the blue are the oddest of creates. The walking befits the movements of a penguin, the mating dance a series of timed movements highlighting the plumage whilst attracting potential mates, the hunting a series of dives from 30 - 50 metres in the sky picking our sardines up to five metres below sea level. The boobies, and their cute blue feet acquired after three years, are a favourite.


Finally thoughts and notes..... The captain of our boat was a spit for Chopper..... Countless tourist, unimaginably loud and rude, but thankfully not present on our trip should not be granted this priceless privilege. They will get back home and drive their suv's / 4wds, whilst chugging on another burger in a Styrofoam container........ Although decimated, it is of pure luck that they have survived the ravages that the rest of the planet has endured from humans ........ The locals, especially the unemployed fisherman are often the forgotten story ............ We though our tour company, gap, were a let down......... The crew and guides were fantastic ......... Swimming a 6am in the sea is a treat ............ When we're old and at least I'm grey and if we're lucky, we'll visit over the wet season.

Attention all and former Dillon's, you have a new sacred pilgrimage that you must perform before you final breath.... The Mongolian and the Ecuadorian equivalent of the Genghis Khan , the mongo.

Captain Danger, Richard Nixon, Baños, and the chariot of the people.

Building on our first Ecuadorian bus trip, we headed down to Baños on a four hour trek via a mix of roads rated as western, laden with pot holes, paved, dirt, and finally ravaged by lava flows. Being a long weekend in Ecuador, we had the privilege of picking a couple of youngsters after a few cervaza´s. Plying themselves in the isle half a metre away, the struggling girlfriend started burping, or at least that is what we thought until vomit started sliding down her boyfriends new leather jacket. As it only can on a crowded bus in the tropics, the product of a afternoon at the football covered and festered on the floor of the bus with the girl swaying over the passengers in front over every corner and pothole. What can you say..... public transport, the chariot of the people.

Baños, meaning baths in Spanish, lies in the valley under the shadow of a 5000 metre volcano. Active as recent as late last year, several roads are under construction and one need not try hard to find the smooth black volcanic stones. Hosting several natural baths, which supposedly for health benefits, you spend 8 minutes in the hot and 2 minutes in the freezing cold have been frequented in the late of night after a days captain dangering or a nice meal.

After reaching our peak of about 4000 metres above sea level on a hike, we meet a friendly old farmer named Antoñio. The charming old man spent every second day tending his cows and chooks on the mountain between driving local buses. His tiny one bedroom shack, the home of this random act of kindness provided fresh tea, dried banana´s, bread, and a good dose of conversation. Advice from a friend suggested this was a real treat to the locals and we should not offer payment of goods in return. After a few photo´s and a sad goodbye, the call came for a few dollars for his kids. Taken a back that we were simply a cash cow, we handed over a few dollars and hiked down through tough terrain during the night both bitter and disappointed. That said, it is easy for a pair of westerners to judge a poor Ecuadorian farmer.


Captain Danger, often seen cutting up some dirt in his adopted home of Melrose had some competition in Ecuador this past day. With bugger all photographic evidence to show for it, a few minor scars, bruises, and that rush that you have from almost killing yourself we enjoyed one of the most exhilarating days of our lives.
First stop, white water rafting through class IV and V rapids. No words can describe the adrenalin rush of frantically paddling, jumping in and out of the boat on the faintest call of IN, getting drenched by ferocious waves, and hitting 10 tonne rocks in middle of the Rio negro. Falling in twice and Beth once mid rapids and feeling a blood rush without even a remote sense of danger, this is something everyone should do!!!

Not entirely sure what it was, but enticed by the discount of two activities in one day we headed canyoning; Abseiling down waterfalls. The first two, 12 and 6 metres were easily descended with one guide holding the safety rope at the bottom and our combined day of prior experience abseling in the Adelaide hills. However, as I was motioned towards the final descent, I started to realise that the man holding the safety rope was firmly staying at the top of this 45 metre waterfall. With panic setting in and Beth hearing numerous cries of holy four letter words I started this apparently crazy descent. I have not qualms in saying I have never been so scared in my life..... It was fantastic!!!! After reaching the edge, we free abseiled, spiralling under the powerful waterfall. Absolutely fantastic.

Tonight, we hunt for the local delicacy coy, which is a rather tasty guinea pig..... roasted without trimming a toe, ear, or eye..... yummy

Never sit in the front seats

Stumbling upon the finest $12 p.p.p.n establishment this side of mongolia, the amazon inn, we spent the last few days aclimatising to the altitude. We will aim to use this as a base for forays into the oriente, highlands, galapagos and the coast.

Quito, consisting of the unesco heritage old town, with it´s 300 to 500 year old colonial building and churches and the new town, an slightly interesting and dirty metropolis. The surrounding picturesque mountains, stand tall between 3,500 to 4,000 metres. The mestizo denziens are often improverised, but friendly. Although, trips at night are almost strictly undertaken by taxi. The local fare is a hearty mix of pork or beef, with rice, casava, one of the hundred varieties of potatoes, and mercusa vegitables.

Yesterday, we headed on a trip to the bustling Saturday market at Otavlo. The 2.5 hour ride through the Andies is anything but safe and only enjoyed in a middle or back seat, watching an 80´s van damme or waynne´s brother movie in Spanish, without a view of the road and oncoming traffic. Local merchants seemingly jump on at will for a ten minute ride, selling anything from water, nuts, icecream, and bread.

The markets themselves are overwellming at first. Covering three plaza´s and overflowing in the side streets, the incan and mestizo market has a fine assortment of ceramics, musical instruments, local and often live produce, painting, and daily wares. If only the market was a daily event, I could easily imagine my mother spending an entire week.

Today we head to baños, home of many more mountains, volcanic warmed baths (baños), hopefully white water rafting, the odd hike, and a rather active volcano, which seemed to miss the 2000 ed of the lonely planet.

Euroshock and a whistlestop tour of Sevilla and Madrid

Struggling to sustain our lavish lifestyle of hostels, bocadillo´s, and a bottle of vino. We cut short our stay in Spain with two days in Sevilla and one in Madrid and headed for Quito, Ecuador.

The final stop of our tour de andulacía was the regional captial of Sevilla. As per the prior stops, it was once the heart and soul of Moorish Spain until falling in the reconquista around 1300. The hallmarks of winding arabic streets, magnificent castles, ever present Spanish and arabic ceramics were all there. Our main site, was the ancient castle of alkazar and enourmous gardens. Remarkable by it´s size and location, walled the heart of town, you would not imagine it´s splendour withour a few hours inside.

It´s difficult to rate a city after one night, but, with everything seemingly going our way, from the hostal, to the gigantic El Prado museum, and the ease of travel; we could´ve both easily spent another few days with a looser budget. It was interesting to note that two of our american dormies, in tow with a backpack and suitcase were living off 8 euros less per person that the both of us.

After a terrible flight on Iberia, we hit Quito and our $US12 per person room. With an airport pickup, tv, double bed, central location, free city tour, and our best breakfast since Eijsden, we´re living like kings.

City of three cultures

As far as I can tell, the region of andulacia, although comprised of several distinct provinces and sub cultures, all cotain several distinct characteristices. Ubquititous sun, superb food, and an interesting mix of visigoth, moorish, jewish, and christian archiecture. Add the fact that our struggling aussie dollars fare much better here than barcelona or amsterdam and we have ourselves a winnner.

Cordoba, continues this trend with the bueatiful mesquita. After the moorish invasion in the latter part of the first millenia, this visigothic church was turned the finest mosque of it´s day. With Pilgrams travelling from North Africa and the Oriente. Not too forget another trend, post requenista, the Christian church and kings added their own modifications and enhancements to make it a truly unique building.

An extensive juderia is to be explored, containing one of the three remaining synagoues to surivive the spanish inquisition. Although small, it is equally distinct from the two cultures and bueatiful.

Although the fare is fantastic, I am yet to find the Spainish equivalent of fish heads. Something that is uniquely spanish and would turn the heads of most aussies. Rating half a mention would be ox tail stew.

Struggling to find the attraction, but nonetheless drawn to the experience, we travelled to a local bull fight and paid five euros for the cheapest seats in the house. After ten minutes, it was clear that attendance would compare poorly to a Power home game and we strolled down to some 20 euro seats, five metres from the fence. I must say, infront of this seemingly brutal ¨sport¨, Beth and I became somewhat of afficionado´s. The artstic dance of the matador, the flight attendant standard posing, the crowd erupting with ole´s, and even the efficiency of the bull´s end. Even witnessing a matador getting one back from the bull. By the end, the difference between the good, bad, and ugly however small, was easily distinguishable.

The stuff fairy tales are made of

Your best childhood fairytale about alladin multiplied by a thousand is the only way to describe the splendours of the alahambra. Originally a Moorish fortress around 900 and later converted to multiple palaces by the Nasrid until 1492; The geometrical architecture and decor create a feeling of wealth, beauty and passion without a hint of decadence. Photo´s will of course accompany on facebook, but I am sure that it will be a poor imitation. When we are in our sixites and sitting on the porch whittling and sweing, we will remember the day we visited the alhahambra as one of the very best.

The first word that comes to mind with Granada, is romantic. The arabic settlements contain cobbled and patterned, narrow and windy streets with houses decorated with arabic tiles and caramics. The bars, cafes, and restaurants are plentiful; Serving a tapa with each drink until late in the morning . As a couple you can survive of one main and grazing. We left Granda today wanting more and vowing to visit one day.
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Just imagine you walk into a bar are you´re John Travolta

Reviewing our accommodation thus far reminds you of of John Travlota. Starting of with a couple of hits, we all but hit rock bottom of the eighties; scientology, way too many ¨Look who´s talking¨ sequels, and befriending that odd Cruise fellow(although we do admire his work from time to time). All, pale in comparison to rooming with Mr Ed. That is, until the good fortune of befriending a promising young producer named Quetin. Well, she was mid forties, dressed rather shabbily, and I´ll call her Estella. Anyway, the charming Estella thoughtfully moved to top floor corner room of this former mansion.... Bath, four bay windows, shower, and not a sole in the room bar us. Mood instantly rising.... It´s Grease Lightning....

Topping the night off, a local troupe of Argentinian singers lodge for the past two nights, held an impromptu session / party out on the plaza for the last few hours before sending us to sleep after enjoying our elebratory fanta and kit kat....

Let´s just hope we avoid a few broken arrows.

How was Barcelona.... last two days were fantastic.... A fabulous garden designed by Gaudi, tapas and a bottle of vino, picasso museum, tapas and a bottle of vino, ubiquitous street performers, stunning architecture, and finally, tappas and a bottle of vino.

After travelling to a few cities large and small across europe, I´m starting to think that Adelaide has MASSIVELY dropped the ball with public transport? Barcelona and Valencia as two case studies house 1.5 million and 700,000 inhabitants. Equally equipped with an extensive network of subways, trams, and buses. We´ve never waited more than 5 minutes for a metro or 15 minutes for a bus!

However, I do struggle with the Spanish culture of mañana, literrally, tomorrow. The pace is often agonizingly slow, bar public transport, Customer service and services are mostly understaffed or and a ten, twenty, or one hundred person line is of little conseqeunce. Take lining up for four hours to catch one of the two trains to Grenanda tomorrow, which were both booked.

Relaxed, architecturally brilliant, loaded with bars and restaurants serving relatively cheap paella and cervaza´s in the afternoon sun. Once you get outdoors, it appears Valencia will have a lot to offer.