Captain Danger, Richard Nixon, Baños, and the chariot of the people.

Building on our first Ecuadorian bus trip, we headed down to Baños on a four hour trek via a mix of roads rated as western, laden with pot holes, paved, dirt, and finally ravaged by lava flows. Being a long weekend in Ecuador, we had the privilege of picking a couple of youngsters after a few cervaza´s. Plying themselves in the isle half a metre away, the struggling girlfriend started burping, or at least that is what we thought until vomit started sliding down her boyfriends new leather jacket. As it only can on a crowded bus in the tropics, the product of a afternoon at the football covered and festered on the floor of the bus with the girl swaying over the passengers in front over every corner and pothole. What can you say..... public transport, the chariot of the people.

Baños, meaning baths in Spanish, lies in the valley under the shadow of a 5000 metre volcano. Active as recent as late last year, several roads are under construction and one need not try hard to find the smooth black volcanic stones. Hosting several natural baths, which supposedly for health benefits, you spend 8 minutes in the hot and 2 minutes in the freezing cold have been frequented in the late of night after a days captain dangering or a nice meal.

After reaching our peak of about 4000 metres above sea level on a hike, we meet a friendly old farmer named Antoñio. The charming old man spent every second day tending his cows and chooks on the mountain between driving local buses. His tiny one bedroom shack, the home of this random act of kindness provided fresh tea, dried banana´s, bread, and a good dose of conversation. Advice from a friend suggested this was a real treat to the locals and we should not offer payment of goods in return. After a few photo´s and a sad goodbye, the call came for a few dollars for his kids. Taken a back that we were simply a cash cow, we handed over a few dollars and hiked down through tough terrain during the night both bitter and disappointed. That said, it is easy for a pair of westerners to judge a poor Ecuadorian farmer.


Captain Danger, often seen cutting up some dirt in his adopted home of Melrose had some competition in Ecuador this past day. With bugger all photographic evidence to show for it, a few minor scars, bruises, and that rush that you have from almost killing yourself we enjoyed one of the most exhilarating days of our lives.
First stop, white water rafting through class IV and V rapids. No words can describe the adrenalin rush of frantically paddling, jumping in and out of the boat on the faintest call of IN, getting drenched by ferocious waves, and hitting 10 tonne rocks in middle of the Rio negro. Falling in twice and Beth once mid rapids and feeling a blood rush without even a remote sense of danger, this is something everyone should do!!!

Not entirely sure what it was, but enticed by the discount of two activities in one day we headed canyoning; Abseiling down waterfalls. The first two, 12 and 6 metres were easily descended with one guide holding the safety rope at the bottom and our combined day of prior experience abseling in the Adelaide hills. However, as I was motioned towards the final descent, I started to realise that the man holding the safety rope was firmly staying at the top of this 45 metre waterfall. With panic setting in and Beth hearing numerous cries of holy four letter words I started this apparently crazy descent. I have not qualms in saying I have never been so scared in my life..... It was fantastic!!!! After reaching the edge, we free abseiled, spiralling under the powerful waterfall. Absolutely fantastic.

Tonight, we hunt for the local delicacy coy, which is a rather tasty guinea pig..... roasted without trimming a toe, ear, or eye..... yummy