Dumplings, smog, and progress?

You can't talk about Shanghai with a little history lesson. Basically a backwater until the 1830's, when a bit of old fashioned imperialism "allowed" the french and british to set up "concessoions" (read colonies) in the heart of shanghai, complete with their own juristinctions, police forces, taxation systems, even water companies. Firstly, it turned Shanghai into the new york or paris of the orient, a place to be, visited by the likes of albert einstein and u.s. presidents. Secondly, and predictably, with three juristictions, it became a haven of crinimals and prostitues, where evading the police, became simply a matter of crossing the border, earning it the moniker, the whore of the orient. Finally, it made the chinese second class citizens in their own country, which inevitably sows the seeds of discontent.

What happened next is history, the communists formented a revolution, tearing down any vestiges of capitalism, only to reverse course in 1990.

So, what is Shanghai today?
A sprawling megatropolis of 17 million with ubiquitous construction and smog, where a new york type skyscraper can neighbour urban squalor with squat toilets, yellow water, and less than basic hygene. The urban elite buy the wares of street vendors making less than 5 dollars a day, without any sign of discontent. Mao, a man seemingly revered in China for his socialist spirit surely would turn in his grave viewing the inequality that is Shanghia.
It boast a stunning water front "the Bund" with an array of 1880's - 1930's New York and Londonesque buildings inhabit by the party apparatik.
A french concession, filled with potentially romatic relics of yesteryear with numerous fine french dining opportunities.
Wonderous, simply wonderous street vendors line the street offering dumplings, asian styled pancakes, milkshares, and numerous other tasty and "unknown" treats.
If you can picture a 1920's Chinese city, it will be old town, with the typical asian architecture you expect to see on tv. Of course, it is lined with vendors peddling anything from tea, to t-shirts, to the little red book. A quick walk around the corner reveals the urban squalor that you come to expect, but rarely a snap happy tourist would see.
And what of the Shanghaiese? For a large metropolis, they seem a happy enough bunch, albeit a bit pushy when the mere mention of an orderly line. Odly, the salesmen and women aren't pushy by contempary standards. Oh, and they certainly do like to huck a loogee, yes, even the chicks.
Finally, can't forget to mention the remarkable digs Florian put up for us, even whilst he was sunning himself in Cambodia, leaving lock, stock, and barrell to us!

I was the unfortunate diner, after ordering a tasty turtle, only have the waiter explain they were out... Oh the nerve.

All in all, even though I could certainly live and work in Shanghai, I'm not entirely sure it has a soul? Perhaps it was lost during the revolution or push for modernisation, it is sort of like a room with too many colours that don't match. Sure, you like some, but together, they look rather odd.

Next, a 17 hour trip by train to Xian.

In search of the giant panda

Three more sleeps till the next trip.... 5 1/2 weeks in china, starting in shanghai and ending in bejing. No real plans to speak of, although a desire to head to Tibet. Gatronomically, looking to seriously punish my stomach and spend a night or two nights on some fermented yaks milk. Looking to visit as many minorities as possible, which may lead to a trip to central asia or mongolia. Hopefully the short course in Mandarin this year will help determine what animal Beth is eating. Oh yeah, If I can scare my mum with my exploits, it will probably help me feel young.

Let's do it, China '09.