Emei Shan and marrauding macaques

Only being two hours south of Chengdu, Emei Shan, one of China's four holiest bhudist mountains and a world heritage unesco site, was a hiking opportunity not to be missed. Lodging at the foot of the mountain, albeit conned into staying at the wrong hotel, we enjoyed the manufactured, but tasteful serenity of the small tourist town of Baguo. I imagine years of experience with propaganda has made construction of these usualy dreary places quite easy? It must be noted, that with sizable bhudist populations in China, Korea, and Japan, these bhudist sites are often full, if not saturated with snap happy tourists who somehow don't see the irony in catching busses and cable cars instead of undertaking the time honoured pilgrammage and hiking up the mountain.

With an early start, we catch a mini bus up the mountain and begin our hike at 7:40, bypassing the first cable car, utilsed by all bar a few dedicated locals. It becomes quickly apparent that this park has been indentified as a tourism goldmine and a troupe of dedicated, albeit relaxed staff duitifully maintain the park and path leading up the mountain. The ascent, all 2000 metres of it, features dozens of monastaries and temples and is well served by a proper stair case　numerous snack stops and the odd restaurant, all seemingly in danger of falling of the mountain.

After 7 hours of hiking, we estimate 18000 stairs, and sacrificing my water bottle to a marraunding macaque, we reach the last monastary and the cable car to ascend the last 300 metres. Let me you, the misery was palpable, drizzle, wind, snow slush over the paths and not even enough degrees C to fill up one hand. Our tired, tired, tired legs wear screaming "Tomorrow, tomorrow". Our new found friends on the other hand, a bunch of 20 something university students, not carrying 10 kilo packs, were not. Seemingly dragged onto the cable car, we drearily pass through the misery and clouds to reach.... blue skies and sunshine?!?!?! It must be 20 degrees and the view, the bluest of skies over white dreamy clounds. UN - BE - LEIVE - ABLE!!!!! This is not what we were expecting, our guidebook is preaching an average maximum of 2 degrees and the view requiring nothing more than devine intervention. We quickly explore the snow covered mountain top and discover sculptured elephant statues leading us up the staircase to a 50 odd metre golden budha and a number of ancient temples. , oh and did I mention the view?

Our legs silenced, we marvel upon our fortune and start to wonder, what poor bastards a) lifted all this up the mountain and b) built these fantastic structures hundreds of years ago.

Splurging on possibly the greatest $80 room on the planet, we forgo the pleasure of bunking in a uninsulated monastary, for hot showers, central heating, and warm noodles. The next day and another 5:45 am wakeup call, we set out for the sunrise, which is apparently even better, but are hampered by visibility of less 100 metres. It must be said, after the previous day, we are certainly not dissapointed as we have truly witnessed something special and even spare a moment to pity the snap happy tourists who bus all but 2 kilomtetres (and complain) and miss this view.

Plagued by timing problems, we skip the downward hike and travel 8 hours by 6 busses, 1 cable car, and 1 taxi back to Chengdu.