Identifying Cordoba as the cultural capital of South America, it seemed like the ideal destination to drown our soon to be South American departing sorrows and ring in the new year. This student mecca, boasting seven universities and some fine architecture produced three days out of four of deserted streets and unexpected and unwanted peace and quiet.... Well, atleast except for new years.
Cracking of evening at a traditional argentinian parilla (meathouse) serving the the quintesential guacho meal of parillada, a large severing of cheapest of bbq meats accompanied by bottomless copa de vino, we were set. Unfortunatly, this celebrated cooking technique did little to enhance the flavour of the tripe, kidneys, livers, and intestines on offer. Then again, upon leaving with three drops of fine argentinian drops under our belts, our spirits were raised as we headed back to the orphanage to raise the flag for the aussies till around 5am.
A pleasant change to the often dull scene of museums was the a short stop at Che Guevarra´s child hood home with a nice mixture of photo´s, nic nacks, multimedia, personal items.
Although quality and safety vary greatly in South American road travel, one general rule applies. Why obey the rules if know one else is?
The chariot of the people
Andian buses hit the dirt roads, pavement, climb mountain high and valley low, and generally collect a few dozen padestrians each year. Sitting behind the driver and travelling at night reduce the shock of looking of 100 metre cliffs inches from the tires, oncoming traffic, and the often near misses of animals, kids, and cars. Fortunatly, you´ll always get atleast one 80´s van Damme or Wayanns bro flick to fill the time and street vendors randomly jumping on the moving vehicle hawking their wares.
Southern Cone buses on the otherhand are reliable, cheap, and often luxurious. Two classes are on offer: Semi cama, the equivalent of business class, and Cama, the equivalent of first class for aboutr $5 more. Well worth the cash. Meals and movies are always on offer, generally with english audio.
Taxi´s
Everywhere, anywhere... Indicators, lanes, and rules all bow to the power of the horn. Signalling 1) your turn in the queue 2) Attracting customers 3) Displaying the finger 4) Displaying displeasure at the 20 minute traffic jam and 5) Saying hi to one of the lady padestrians.
Driving
Slightly saving the lunacy is that practically all streets are one way.... Considering how everyone drives, it must save tens of thousands of lives a year. Adelaide needs it, Australia needs it, hell, the UN should mandate it.
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