Denzel Washington, a lodge with no (little) beer, paddle, paddle, and more paddling

After the 8 hours on the bus and five more waiting for our mestizo guide Wassington, the countries reponse to Denzel Washington. We travel by taxi for two to three hours over mostly dirt roads into country barely touched by agriculture and only recently by oil. We enter the Parque Nacional Cuyabeno by motorized canoe and travel for another two to three hours to reach our final destination, the jamu lodge. Located in dense jungle with the temprature topping thirty eight with high humidity, it naturally lacked the all basic mod cons .... hot water, electricity, and most disturbingly of all, low supplies of the local pilsner to combat the exhausting heat.

The activities, a mixture of well planned and shambolic, are easily delineated in the following catagories.

Fishing.... As the only naturalist on the two fishing trips, I secretly avoided catching any fish in contrast to other ravenous tourists who easily pulled in numerous paranas and other local fish, including a 30cm parana by Beth. The trip to and from these fertile zones was an arduos two or three hour paddle in wooden canoe, either in the heat of the midday sun or the mosquito and bat clad, darkness of night.

Nature hikes.... Hicking through mud, swamps, often seemingly impenatrable terrain, and once at night, produced a vast array of flora with som interesting fauna. Many trees and plants provide purpose to the indigenous community, from trees to sound out an S.O.S, plants for the bites of snakes and spiders, termites to protect against mosuiqtios, ants just for their bitter taste (personally licking three different types from their trees), and even a life long protection against malaria. The night hike, looking for massive spiders, although no tarrantulas, boa constrictors, caymens, and various insects was educational and quite daunting in the heart of the jungle armed with only a few flash lights and a steve irwin esque guide.

Indigenous community .... The villages, who fortunatly own title to their oil rich land, recieve periodic gifts of electricity, phones, running water in an attempt to butter them up for a future acquisition or deal with the oil companies. Although extremely remote, the locals, often with eight children, appear well nourished. The few modern commodoties afforded to them by the oil companies hasten their move from the local traditions. The lack full year tourismo positions provides a dispora to the oil companies and cities in search for employment and the advantages of convenneince. After making some rather tasty papaya bread we visit the local shaman. A interesting man who informed us on his heritage, struggles with finding a sucessor, abundance of medical plants in the forest, and his hallucinigencic drinks which he consumes three times a week to help with diagnosis. It must be said of such a learned individual, his pet dog suffered disturbingly from malnutrition.

After the arrival of cold beer and a handful of aussies, we enjoyed an afternoon in the hammocks, a swim, and an unsuccesful search for an anaconda.

With several more days in Ecuador, we will explore the old town and perhaps hike the volcano, Cotopaxi.